A DAY TRIP TO AWESOME GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA



Photo Travelogue :


I love visiting old forts and my blogs has covered quite a bunch from all over the country. India - the cradle of civilizations since time immemorial has hundreds ( if not thousands ) of forts, with the state of Maharashtra itself having hundreds within it. My interest lies in learning the history of these magnificient structures as well as experiencing their 'spooky' quotent; because, every historical fort almost always has a bloody history of sorts. And when its a fort thats as old as the Ghodbunder Fort, one can be rest assured of its spine-chilling story. Bombay has a rich history that goes back to Portugese occupancy and then the British, in between the native Marathas fighting them both tooth and nail, so these forts has seen maximum battles and deaths from attacks and captures in a repeat mode. These forts were of importance as they stood in strategic locations and were of great importance both from administration and defence, as well as trade point of view. The Ghodbunder Fort served both these purposes. At present, although, it is currently in ruins and lay abandoned, one can't help but recall what glory it must've witnessed and upheld in its past.

I had made a mental note to visit all the forts surrounding Bombay - there are quite a many, so, Ghodbunder Fort was definately on that itinerary. One has to go via the 20 kms long Ghodbunder Road to reach Ghodbunder Fort. It lies somewhere in between from both Borivali ( western line ) side or Thane ( central line ). As soon as one reaches the famous Fountain Hotel Circle ( all buses stop at this point ), taking the opposite straight road to the ghodbunder village it is a 3km or so walk. I asked couple of locals the directions and it was quite a straight road - only at the end it becomes circular with two split roads reaching the same spot. The place is on top of a small hill so the climb was inevitable. I was surpised to see so many houses clustered so close to each other throughout the entire length of that hill road on both the sides. Its amazing to see what remote corners people lived and thrived. I spotted some monkeys too jumping from one roof to the other. The view of the Ulhas river or Vasai Creek kept me company till I reached the fort. At first, I was bit dissapointed as I saw those construction ladders all over the place at the entrance - its going under renovation. Nonetheless, I went in and slowly my mind changed from disappointment to excitement as I reached the interiors of the Fort. The entry is free. Its a comparatively small fort and can be covered within 1-2 hours. It has couple of courtyards ( small and big ), with certain enclosed sections with high walls. Locals playing cricket in one such sections was bit disappointing again - I hope its restricted. However, I was glad the fort walls were not defaced with graffiti. There were just few other tourists too so it was quite enjoyable - not too noisy. I hate it when tourists create a nuisance in histortical spots. A flag stood tall at the cylindrical bastion and I loved the views from it. My experience was lovely and I had a great time exploring all corners. Here's my entire experience at the fort. Enjoy :-)
GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA
view from the entrance...


GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA
these walls were crumbling at one point...it has been restored by the ASI...

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landscaped garden...newly made...

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stone steps going up...gives that typical 'ancient' feel...

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hidden secret narrow stairways...for quick escape...

GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA

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the enclosers where horses were kept in the past for trade by the portugese and arabs...

GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRAGHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRAGHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA
the central courtyard...

I was alone for a while in this particular area and had quite an eerie feeling of being continuously watched. Oddly enough, it was quite 'cold' as well in this spot compared to other parts of the fort that were scorching hot, adding to the discomfort of being 'watched' and engulfed by those dwellers of the past whose souls still roam this place. While capturing and protecting this fort throughout history, many people have died. Their spirits to this date, are stuck and roam these grounds and have been witnessed many times particularly at nights by visitors as well as locals. The place had a strange smell too ( of horses? ) that lingered on even when I reached home and was preparing this post the next morning. Quite weird!

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the cylindrical bastion of the fort...


it gives great 360 degree views from the circular top of the entire coastal surroundings - of the Arabian Sea, the Vasai creek to the looming heights of the forested hills of Sanjay Gandhi National Park at a distance and the highway...

GHODBUNDER FORT, MAHARASHTRA
the great maratha 'saffron' flag flying high at 105 feet...


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fort ruins before it was renovated...quite spooky...( pics from archives )
Since this place has been taken over by the Archeological Survey of India and is being restored under the 'adopt a monument', scheme, the place has changed a lot and the difference is quite evident. The looks might have changed with beautification, proper maintainence and re-structures, but will it change its history - nops!


The Ghodbunder Fort Ghodbunder Fort is a fort located in Ghodbunder Village, Thane, Maharashtra, India, on the hill just south of the Ulhas River. It was built by the Portuguese and then occupied by the Marathas, before being used as the East India Company's district headquarters ( wiki ). Linking to Skywatch & MyWorldThruMyCameraLens
Address : Ghodbander Village, Ghodbunder, Mira Bhayandar, Maharashtra 401107
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DONGLA OBSERVATORY AND UJJAIN PLANETARIUM



Ujjain, a 1000+ year old city, has been considered very important since ancient times ~ both for religious purposes as well as for its astronomical significance. In religious, it has multiple ancient temples and hundreds of sacred pilgrimage sites many considered 'shaktipeeth' 'Jyotirlingas of Shiva' or temples that are 'vibrant and alive' with the diety residing in it. It is also the venue for one of the major Kumbh melas. On astronomical side, Surya Siddhanta and the Panch Siddhanta ( considered great works on astronomy ) were written in Ujjain. It was long considered that the Tropic of Cancer and Zero degree Meridian passed through it; hence, it has been a hotspot for astronomy enthusiasts too besides saints/sages since time immemorial with Raja Jaisingh of Jaipur hogging the spotlight. He had a penchant for mathematical and astronomical studies and built various observatories with interesting calculating and measuring instruments at places like Jaipur, Delhi, Mathura, Varanasi, and also, Ujjain - these being popularly known as 'Jantar-Mantar'. One needs to visit these 'jantar mantar' to understand how various studies related to astronomy/ weather etc were done during olden times. In modern times, with better and improved technologies we have observatories like the one in Dongla or Planetariums. Ujjain has both; and quite advanced ones too, helping in studies of astronomy, space science, observe the marvels of the milky way/ galaxies and research. The place is situated in such a location i.e in the tropic of cancer, that the place almost always has a peculiar vibe of 'timelessness'. Its also the main worship site of 'mahakal' where 'kal' denotes time.

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road to dongla observatory, clear skies...

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close up...

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insides of the observatory...biggest telescope of mp...

zero shadow measuring instrument at dongla...

With the biggest optical telescope in Madhya Pradesh, Dongla Observatory is an important astronomical site in India. The place experiences Zero Shadow Day on the day of Summer Solstice and there is an instrument that measures it as well, besides others. Ujjain, where once the actual intersection of the zero degree meridian of the ancient world with the Tropic of Cancer was said to have located is no longer considered so; instead, it is at Dongla which is located about 39 kms from Ujjain, making it a very important site for astronomers and geographers alike.

Ujjain Planetarium
UJJAIN PLANETARIUMUJJAIN PLANETARIUM
the insides...
UJJAIN PLANETARIUM
science enthusiasts...
The Ujjain Planetarium is an ultra-modern ( with 3-D Imax movie theatre within ) planetarium with seating capacity of 124 persons.

Ujjain is an ancient city beside the Kshipra River in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. An important Hindu pilgrimage destination, it’s known for the centuries-old Mahakaleshwar Temple and many other ancient temples. It is also famous for its ancent astroniomical studies.
Address : Dongla, Madhya Pradesh 456443 | MPCST Planetarium, Antariksha Parisar, Sector C, Vasant Vihar, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh 456010
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HUNTING THE ELUSIVE KALA KILLA , RIWA, REEWA, REWAH, OR THE DHARAVI FORT



Photo Travelogue :
Read first part - Here


Some historical place you visit and go WOW! And, some historical place you visit and go EEEEEW! Its just a difference of how that place or thing is maintained or preserved. Well looked after things impresses you even after centuries. And non-maintained or neglected things makes you wonder why, WHY! Why things are the way they are. Visiting this particular fort brought out exactly those second-type cringe emotions in me ~ atleast till I reached there. But...oh...well!!

After getting down at Sion East, I went to the Sion fort. It was only 1pm noon, and I had time till 3pm when it'd open for the evening slot. Since I had two hourts to kill, I decided to hunt the Riwa fort which was supposed to be near Sion fort itself. But hunting for it was quite a task. Everyone knew Sion fort, but no one had even heard of Riwa Fort. Until I used its other name 'Kala killa' or black fort, then someone finally gave me the directions with a warning that there's nothing there except slums. I didn't give up. If it was a fort, there had to be some remains atleast. I had lunch of Dosa at a hotel near the station, when I decided to attempt again for directions. I asked the hotel owner, and he vaguely told me to go along the road ( sion-bandra link road ) towards west, and that it was somewhere there ( not too far, and at walkable distance ). However, as soon as I started walking in that direction, I immediately started regretting it. It was not just a heavily conjested area but a dirty slum too. Nonetheless, I kept asking here and there about 'kala killa' and finally someone told me go ahead...its little further after Ashok Mill Compound! I reached a sign boad - 'Kalla Killa Road' - but where on earth was the fort?

KALA KILLA
the kala killa or black fort road...

KALA KILLA
where the hell am I going? who are these people?

I seemed to have entered another world altogether. It was a narrow path with people living literally everywhere. Its called the Dharavi slums. I couldnot believe my eyes. I asked someone where the fort was. They said, there's no fort anymore as it was encroached by slums. There was something at the end of the road though, but it was nothing like a fort. I was quite disheartened. But since I came so far, I had to have a look at that 'something'. I didn't like the experience at all. I did reach the end point and saw a huge wall. It was the fort. But attached to it - literally stuck to it were all these dwellings. I really felt like crying. I asked a woman washing clothes, how to go inside that wall thing. She said there was nothing inside, but told me to go ahead, that there was a way. I went through even a narrower portion, right through someone's house or shanty or whatever it was. Its amazing how people lived. I came across a ladder. That was the only entrance to the fort. A ladder!

KALA KILLA
some information at the base...so, the ASI guys were here...can't they clean these place off the slums?

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a plaque said – “Built by Order of the Honorable Horn Esq. President and Governor of Bombay in 1737” - so, it was the official Riwa fort! I had mixed feelings discovering it finally...

KALA KILLA
should I climb or not? I felt dizzy seeing the ladder...the only entrance...

As I started climbing I heard voices from above that said - come come. I saw two guys who spotted me approaching. One was taking pictures of the fort and asked me to come along. He welcomed me. After I reached the top, he informed me that he was a local who also had interest in the fort and was trying for its upkeep. He showed me few tall slum development buildings nearby, where he hoped the slum dwellers could be shifted and the fort surroundings, beautified. But he showed disappointment that since last 6 years there has been no progress in this regard due to various politics. He went on to show the three bastions of the fort; it's well or baaori and a hidden entrance or opening of a tunnel, which, he said went to the Sion fort ( a secret passage ). It was incredible. The well and the tunnel entrance which used to be open earlier has been now locked with grill for safety purpose and to avoid vandalism. He said it was a very old fort built in the 1700s and was of great historic importance of the city of Bombay. It was a relief that the top of the fort has not been encroached upon yet. Although, he informed me that the slum people did use it sometimes for community functions like puja, weddings etc. How practical right? No need to book a hall, the fort served the purpose, for free! Hah! The guy also said, there were rooms and chambers underneath where we stood. Armed with so much information, I clicked few pictures myself and finally bade them bye. Going down that ladder was more scary than going up. He asked me if I'd come again. I replied, only after the slums are gone and the fort is beautified. Well I hope so, because, the fort though still sturdy, was crying for help. It needs to be protected and not let be encroached upon this way.

KALA KILLA
the baori or well inside the fort...

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the entrance to the tunnel...I tried peeking in...it was too dark...

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the fort courtyard...with steps to sit and watch points...

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someone feeding the birds?

I exited the place with a heavy heart. Although, I was happy that I did discover the fort after all. Well..well!


The Riwa Fort, locally known as Kala Qilla or Black Fort, is a fort in central Mumbai (Bombay), India on the banks of the Mithi River. John Horne, the then Governor of Bombay, had commissioned the construction of this fort to protect Bombay from the aggressive sea-faring Marathas. The fort is currently in a dilapidated condition amidst the Dharavi slums ( wiki ).
Address : 1, Budhiram Seth Chawl, Sion Railway Colony, Kala Qila, Dharavi, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400017
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